Khwai has long been one of Botswana’s most dynamic and fascinating safari areas. It sits on the eastern edge of the Okavango Delta, bordering the Moremi Game Reserve, yet operates under a completely different model — a community-run concession rather than a government-managed park. That distinction has shaped both its charm and its current challenges.

The Heart of Khwai

Just a few hours’ drive from Maun or a quick hop to Khwai Airstrip, this area blends exceptional game viewing with genuine community presence. The small Khwai Village is at its centre — a place where people live alongside wildlife, where the rhythms of the Delta define daily life. This accessibility and authenticity are what make Khwai so valuable, both culturally and economically, to Botswana’s tourism story.

The Question Everyone’s Asking

In recent years, Khwai has seen a sharp rise in visitors, particularly from the self-drive and mobile camping sectors. This growth is a testament to its appeal — yet it has also sparked a heated debate. Too many vehicles at sightings, particularly around predators, are putting real pressure on the wildlife. Not even the most eager guest wants to see a leopard hemmed in by a half-circle of vehicles, the moment less about nature and more about numbers.

Regulations exist for lodges and professional guides, but the question remains: how do we govern those who travel freely? The self-drive community plays a vital role in Botswana’s tourism mix, but consistent standards, education, and accountability are needed if Khwai is to remain sustainable.

Why Khwai Still Matters

It’s important to say this clearly: we are pro Khwai. The area has an essential place in Botswana’s tourism landscape, especially for the budget-conscious traveller. For many visitors, private concessions are simply unaffordable. Khwai offers an attainable way to experience the Okavango Delta’s magic without excluding people. It keeps Botswana’s safari offering open to all markets — not only the elite.

The wildlife here is extraordinary. High predator densities, abundant elephants, and the ever-changing Khwai River make this one of the most productive game areas in the Delta. When managed well, it delivers the same thrill and authenticity that first drew travellers to Botswana decades ago.

Finding the Balance

The solution isn’t to restrict access entirely. It’s to manage it smarter. Clearer self-drive guidelines, community involvement, cooperative monitoring between lodge operators, and strong visitor education can all make a difference. Every stakeholder — from the community trust to the government, from mobile operators to DMCs like us — must play a part.

Khwai can continue to thrive if we treat it as the shared resource it is. It doesn’t need to be exclusive to be exceptional, but it does need to be respected.

Our Takeaway

Khwai isn’t “out of hand” yet, but it’s heading that way unless we collectively act with foresight. Managed responsibly, it can remain a vital bridge between high-end and budget travel — a living example of community benefit, wilderness access, and real Botswana character.

At Chester & Rose, we believe Khwai still has a powerful story to tell. And we'll continue to educate our agents and clients on responsible tourism to the area.